We’ve all been there, breaking out suddenly and wondering what to do. Using a face mask in hopes to clear up our skin only to discover it did nothing or even made matters worse. Or we find a popular mask to try out that seems effective yet adorable, only to find out that it only irritated our skin. Similar to basic skincare, not all face masks are created equal, and not all masks are functional. Luckily there are key ingredients to look for when choosing your next treatment that can give insight into whether that particular face mask is a right fit for you.

Type of mask

• Sheet mask: Sheet masks are a one-time-use mask that is saturated with ingredients meant to penetrate the skin like a serum would. There are a wide variety of sheet masks meant for different skin types depending on the ingredients they contain. While sheet masks are fun and easy to use, it is important to note that they don't necessarily provide an increased benefit compared to a traditional face mask.

• Peel-off: Peel-off masks are applied to the skin, left for a period of time, then gently peeled off of the face. A good peel-off mask gently removes a thin layer of dead skin cells and dirt from the pores, which provides an intense clean and should leave the skin feeling smooth. If you have super-sensitive skin be cautious when using or stay away completely.

• Clay/Charcoal: Clay masks are made from clay or mud that are perfect for soaking up any excess oil or dirt, which minimizes impurities and exfoliates your skin. Charcoal also has the unique ability to gently draw out dirt from congested pores and is great to use for blackheads and excess sebum. Charcoal is typically ideal to use as a spot treatment when breaking out to ensure irritation of the skin is minimal. For best results use a damp warm towel to open up your pores and pat dry right before applying. These masks are ideal for those who have oily skin and should be used with caution for those who have dry or sensitive skin.

• Hydrogels: Hydrogel masks are a type of sheet mask that are masks made out of thick gel infused with active ingredients rather than soaked in ingredients. This allows those masks to carry a higher amount of active ingredients and are best for eye masks and hydrating masks since they can improve hydration, especially when combined with collagen peptides.‌

• Cream: If it's a wash-off mask that doesn't fit into other categories, it probably could fall into this catch-all category. Creamy wash-off masks have a wide variety of benefits depending on the active ingredients they are made of. For example, hyaluronic acid is great for hydration, and alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids for exfoliation.

• Sleeping: A sleep mask is typically a hydrating mask that you leave on overnight to provide your skin with extra moisture. Leaving this type of mask on for a longer time gives the ingredients more time to work. Sleep masks are often a lighter formula with a high concentration of active ingredients, and are used as the last step in your evening skincare routine.

Ingredients

• Niacinamide: A great ingredient for soothing rosacea or redness as well as dealing with acne. Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 and is shown to be a good tool for minimizing redness and blotchiness, minimizing enlarged pores, and helping with fine lines and hyperpigmentation.

• Vitamin C: A powerful antioxidant that can help brighten the skin and even out skin tone. Vitamin C is great for those with hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles, or dull skin due to its ability to promote collagen production and help provide glowing skin.

• Hyaluronic acid: A hydrating ingredient that can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water. Hyaluronic acid is wonderful for those with dry or dehydrated skin as it helps the skin to retain moisture, and creates a plumping effect.

• Salicylic acid: An exfoliating ingredient that can penetrate the pores to help unclog them. Salicylic acid is perfect for those with acne-prone skin to treat acne flare-ups as it helps the skin to shed dead cells from the top layer and decreases redness and inflammation.

• Kojic acid: An ingredient with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that helps to reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Kojic Acid is great for lightening sun damage or scars and has wonderful anti-aging, and antimicrobial properties which can help treat acne as well.

Some ingredients to avoid: Phthalates – often listed as “fragrances,” synthetic Fragrances, parabens, dyes, siloxanes – these will show up as ingredients that end in “-siloxane” or “-methicone,” and anything with glitter or sparkles.

There is no one-size fits all mask. Masks work because in general, they have a much higher concentration of active ingredients than typical skincare products. Because of this, before trying a new face mask always remember to do a patch test if you are able to ensure that it will not irritate or cause a reaction to your skin. For best results, face masks should be a part of your skincare routine, take that time to create a self-care moment for yourself, but don’t overdo it. When using a mask, only apply a mask for the time duration that is recommended, especially if it has an exfoliating formula, as it can cause excess irritation. In some cases leaving a mask on for too long may counterintuitively cause skin to become irritated and drier. Remember to always look for products that are hypoallergenic, fragrance-free, dye-free, and paraben free. In addition, if you are having various issues at once such as flakey skin on your cheeks and forehead but congested pores on your nose, consider multi-masking and applying different types of masks on different parts of your face.

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